Touring the Lyrarakis
Winery on Crete
Greece Travel Secrets tours the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete and learns about Crete grape varieties such as plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana, mandilari, and kotsifali.
The View from the Lyrarakis Winery
The Cretan wine business is booming, a fact that was
recognised a few years ago by Wine Enthusiast magazine. It nominated Crete on its
shortlist for Wine Region of the Year, along with Champagne, Provence, Sonoma
County and the eventual winner, Oregon's Willamette Valley. Illustrious company
indeed.
On a tour of one of the island's biggest wineries,
Lyrarakis, we learn one of the reasons why from our guide, Eva Gouvianaki.
'There are lots of parents who started wineries,' she says, 'and now their
children are the second generation. They are educated as oenologists, whereas
the parents learned simply by doing it. Right now we have specialists, and the
wine is better. The parents started and the children took it further. But here
we believe in meraki – it means if
you're going to do something, you want to do it with passion.'
Lyrarakis Vines
Lyrarakis was founded by brothers Manolis and Sotiris Lyrarakis
in 1966 and they made an unusual decision which turned out to be farsighted,
and another reason for the current success of Cretan wines. They concentrated
on growing two local grape varieties, plyto and dafni, which no-one else was
using to make wine and which might well now be extinct if not for the Lyrarakis
brothers.
Bottles at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Today there are over 50 wineries on Crete, many of them
growing familiar imported grape varieties like syrah and merlot, but Lyrarakis
and others prefer their native varieties like plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana,
mandilari and kotsifali. They make distinctive wines that are part of the terroir of Crete, the largest and most
southerly of the Greek islands.
Bottles at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Before we tour the winery and taste the wines, Eva drives
us out to see another of the Lyrarakis brothers' legacies, the Karoula wine
press. Crete is home to many ancient wine presses, including the oldest known
press in the world, some 3500 years old. The Karoula press dates from the 14th
century and is carved out of the area's natural rock.
The Karoula Wine Press
'It was a communal press,' Eva explains, 'where everyone
would bring their grapes to tread them, and the juice would flow down the
slope. There was a second pressing nearby. Everyone knew that the press was
here, but one of the founding brothers thought it was important to protect it
so he reported it to the authorities to help preserve it for future
generations. Those are our vines behind the press, the plyto grapes. At one
time this whole valley would have been filled with vines.'
Barrels at the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Cretan wines have a distinguished history. Homer reported
that they were loved throughout the known world. The Minoans exported
wine to Egypt, which is about 400 miles away across the Libyan Sea. In the 15th
and 16th centuries, Cretan wines were exported to Venice, where they were rated
very highly indeed.
Today Lyrarakis, the biggest and oldest winery in the
Iraklion region, produces a million litres of wine a year, half of which is
exported to the USA, Japan, China and several other countries. In the UK the
importers are Berry Brothers and Rudd, who have supplied wine to the royal
family since the reign of King George III.
Lyrarakis is now run by the second generation, the five
children of Manolis and Sotiris Lyrarakis. As we enter the tasting room and
impressive restaurant, a young girl enters and skips through the room.
'And here comes the third generation,' Eva laughs, as we sit
down to taste the wines, and pair them with cheese and other Cretan delicacies.
We try the dafni, which has hints of rosemary and lavender - and which you can
buy in M&S. Their Legacy rosé is unusually dark for a rosé, almost a plum
colour, while the intensely delicious Malvasia of Crete dessert wine uses a
blend of plyto, dafni, vidiano and vilana grapes which are dried in the sun for
nine days to concentrate the sugars.
We also try their Symbolo wine, a complex and fruity wine,
heavy on the tannin. It's a flagship wine, only made when the grapes are
excellent, and last produced in 2012. The good news is… 2016 was an excellent
vintage on Crete, making 2017 the perfect year for wine-lovers to visit.
All Photos (c) Mike Gerrard
See our YouTube video about another aspect of our visit to the Lyrarakis Winery:
Visiting Lyrarakis
The author visited the Lyrarakis Winery as part of a special
food and wine tour organised by www.GoCrete.net.
See also the Lyrarakis Winery website, and Wines of Crete.
Staying Nearby
Greece Travel Secrets stayed in Apostoli at the Organic Orgon Farm, in one of their beautifully renovated traditional guesthouses, about 8 miles from the Lyrarakis Winery.
The Kalimera Archanes renovated stone houses are in the
village of Archanes, about 7 miles from the Lyrarakis Winery, and a similar
distance from Iraklion Airport. They can be booked through Sunvil Holidays.
Where to Stay on Crete
Other Crete pages
Crete festivals and events include Carnival Easter, Whitsun, Christmas, many other religious feast days and public holidays.
The most famous Cretan writers and artists include the painter El Greco and the author of Zorba the Greek, Nikos Kazantzakis.
Athens Food Tours are being introduced by new company The Greek Fork, and will include tours of the Central Market, and the best street food.
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Crete Botanical Gardens near Chania and finds a wonderland of colourful plants, trees, and flowers filling a lovely valley.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Eastern Crete including restaurants and tavernas in Elounda, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Kato Zakros.
What is a Greek Salad – a Greek Salad is made up of tomatoes, cucumber, onions, green pepper, olives, and feta cheese.
What is Metaxa? Metaxa is an amber Greek spirit combining brandy made by distilling wine, sweet wine from Samos and a secret recipe of Mediterranean botanicals.
Icon painting is a centuries-old tradition in Crete and the rest of Greece, and Greece Travel Secrets meets a modern-day icon painter in Elounda on Crete.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Western Crete with tavernas and restaurants in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Information for travelers on Corfu Food and Drink including restaurants and tavernas, Corfiot specialties, desserts, wine and other Greek drinks like ouzo.
The area east from Paleohora along the south-west coast of Crete includes resorts like Agia Galini, gorges like the Imbros Gorge and quieter towns like Sfakia.
Greece Travel Secrets visits Visual Arts Crete who offer accommodation and run art courses at their home and studio in the village of Kastellos near Rethymnon.
Malia on the north coast of Crete is renowned for its nightlife and beaches but also has the Minoan Palace of Malia, one of Crete's many archaeological sites.
This tour around central Crete lists some of the area’s highlights such as the traditional village of Arolithos, Minoan remains at Tilisos, and Agioi Deka.
The best things to do on Crete and top things to see include the Samaria Gorge, the Minoan Palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, the towns of Chania and Rethymnon.
Greek alcoholic drinks include distinctly Greek drinks such as ouzo, Metaxa, retsina, raki, tsikoudia and tsipouro, but also Greek wines and Greek beers.
The Diktean or Diktaean Cave, also known as the Psychro Cave, near the village of Psychro in eastern Crete, is said to be the birthplace of Zeus.
The travel tale Our Hire Car in Crete describes what it’s like when you go driving in Greece and get off the beaten track, resulting in kindnesses.
Greece Travel Secrets eats at Vegera in Zaros and finds a cheap but wonderful feast of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes cooked daily with fresh local food.
A visit to the Museum of Samos Wine to learn about the muscat grapes that produce the best dessert wines in the world and also the Greek spirit, Metaxa.
Crete's capital and largest city is Irakleio, also called Iraklion or Heraklion, a large and busy place with good restaurants, museums and historical buildings.
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to tipping in Greece from two Greece travel experts, including when to tip, what to tip and when not to tip.
Ancient Gortina is an archaeological site in southern Crete famous for the church of Ayios Titos and for the Law Code inscribed here, the first in Europe.
The Snails House in Plouti near Phaistos in southern Crete serves the Cretan delicacy of snails, cooked in several different ways.
Greece Travel Secrets page on Phaistos or Faistos, the site of one of the finest Minoan palaces on Crete and is where the mysterious Phaistos Disc was found.
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