Hiking the Samaria Gorge
As we drive higher and higher into the White Mountains of
Crete, leaving behind our hotel in the busy resort of Paleohora, I start to
realise the immensity of what we're about to do: walking the Samaria Gorge.
All Photos by Mike Gerrard, (c) www.Greece-Travel-Secrets.com
Samaria is often incorrectly called the longest gorge in
Europe. It can't hold a candle to the Tara River Gorge in Montenegro, for
example, which is 51 miles (82 km) long, but nevertheless at almost ten miles
(16 km) it still offers a daunting challenge for a day's hike. Although it is
early October, the temperature in southern Crete has been in the 80-90F
(26-32C) range for several days now.
Sweat has poured and legs have ached as we scrambled over
rocks and up steep paths in the glare of the sun. Today may start chilly,
requiring extra sweaters for the early start that's needed, but it won't stay
that way for long. But it will turn out to be the best day of the entire week
of walking.
I've been to Crete many times and written guides to the
island, but I'd never hiked the Samaria Gorge. As we get closer to the drop-off
point at the entrance, which is about 4,100 feet (1,250 metres) high, I start
to get a little nervous. Will it be too tough a challenge? Will it even be a
disappointment?
We buy our inexpensive tickets at the entrance, and are reminded to
keep them as they're collected at the bottom of the gorge to make sure everyone
gets out safely. Visitors have occasionally got lost and died, even though it
is mostly a well-trodden path, and in May 2015 70 hikers had to be rescued from
the gorge when sudden bad weather made it impossible for them to get out.
All such negative thoughts are banished, though, as soon as
we get to the first overview and gaze in wonder at the majesty of the gorge
falling away in front of us. Steps zig-zag down for an initial short, steep
descent and mountain slopes filled with pine trees seem to loom over us in
every direction.
At first the path is filled with irritating chatter in numerous languages, somewhat spoiling the immensity and serenity of the mountains. In summer as many as 2,000 people will hike the gorge in one day, and even now in October it will still be several hundred. But the chatter slowly disperses as we deliberately walk slowly, and stop constantly to take photos, gaze around and simply enjoy being there.
Ayios Nikolaos Church
For the first hour or so the path descends, sometimes
steeply and sometimes gently, and the scenery evolves like a constantly
changing movie. I'd expected one long hike, but there's plenty of variety –
chapels, rest areas with WCs (some better than others), information boards,
warning signs and, perfectly located about halfway along for a picnic lunch
stop, the deserted village of Samaria.
A Kri-kri in the Abandoned Samaria Village
Samaria was abandoned in 1962 when the whole area was turned
into a National Park, and the mind boggles at the kind of existence people must
have had here, facing a few hours hike in either direction to get anywhere at
all. As we enjoy the cheese and spinach pies we'd bought fresh that morning at
the bakery in Paleohora, we also enjoy the rare sight of the Cretan wild goat,
the kri-kri. There are only about 2,000 left in the wild, all of them on Crete
and its offshore islands. Here in Samaria they obviously thrive by hoovering up
the hikers' left-overs.
Sadly for the goats our pies are far too delicious to leave
even a crumb behind, and so fortified once more we hike on, cross dried-up
streams, climb through woodland, climb down again, cross more stream beds, then
pause to let two men leading horses pass by, looking like something out of a
cowboy western.
Nearing the end we reach one of the gorge's most dramatic
features, known as the Iron Gates. The sides of the gorge squeeze in so that
they're only about 13 feet (4 metres) apart, yet you strain your neck to look
up while the sheer rocky faces rise to 980 feet (300 metres) above you.
If passing through the Iron Gates is one of those
experiences when nature simply dwarfs you, hiking the Samaria Gorge turns out
to be both a humbling and an exhilarating hike. The muscles may grow weary but
the spirits soar at the thought that there are still wild places like this in
the world, there for anyone to enjoy.
On the boat back to Paleohora from Ayia Roumeli, the little
port near the end of the gorge, we make an unscheduled stop in a deserted spot
by a rocky beach. A herd of goats comes running down, bells tinkling, to greet
the boat. The car ramp goes down and an elderly shepherd gets off and walks
among them. What's all that about?
'Oh, he is now 80-years-old,' one of the crew says. 'He can
no longer row his own boat to tend to his goats, so we give him a lift and
someone else will take him back. We think it's important to keep up the old
ways.'
It reminds us of why we love Crete so much, this island of
toughness, kindness and wild, wild places.
Don't miss our YouTube video of our hike along the Samaria Gorge
Where to Stay on Crete
Other Crete pages
Driving central Crete in three days gives you time to see the highlights including the Minoan palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, the beaches and the Diktean Cave.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Central Crete including hotels in Matala, Ayia Galini, and Zaros.
Greece Travel Secrets eats at Vegera in Zaros and finds a cheap but wonderful feast of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes cooked daily with fresh local food.
This Rouvas Gorge walk starts and ends in Zaros in southern Crete and should take three to four hours with a distance of eight kilometres or five miles.
Keramos Studios in Zaros on Crete is an inexpensive two-star hotel/guesthouse with one of the best breakfasts on the island using food from the family’s farm.
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to Zaros in Central Crete, including what to do, where to stay, and where to eat.
Crete (Kriti) is the largest Greek island and its main attractions include the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the Samarian Gorge, Chania and Rethymnon.
The largest of the Greek islands, Crete has four ENUESCO sites, which are Sitia, Psiloritis, Asterousia, and the Gorge of Samaria.
The Dalabelos Estate offers luxury eco-tourism accommodation on Crete in the hills near Rethymnon with its own farm, vineyard and olive groves.
Crete’s wildlife and landscape are two of the island’s attractions, including gorges for hiking, rare raptors like the lammergeier, wildcats and ancient trees.
Ancient Gournia is a Minoan archaeological site between Agios Nikolaos and Sitia in Eastern Crete where the visitor can see evidence of a maze of back streets.
The best things to do on Crete and top things to see include the Samaria Gorge, the Minoan Palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, the towns of Chania and Rethymnon.
Crete festivals and events include Carnival Easter, Whitsun, Christmas, many other religious feast days and public holidays.
Greece Travel Secrets suggests where to stay in Eastern Crete with our favourite hotels in Zakros, Elounds, Sitia, Agios Nikolaos, Istron Bay, Myrtos, Neapolis.
Greece Travel Secrets’ potted guide to Eastern Crete and why you should consider it for a holiday, including seeing Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, Vai Beach and Zakros.
How to see eastern Crete in five days, with its beaches, Minoan palaces, timeless villages, unique churches and mountain and coastal scenery.
Greece Travel Secrets discovers Sitia, the main town in eastern Crete, with its relaxing waterfront, inexpensive hotels, good food, and nearby ancient sites.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Eastern Crete including restaurants and tavernas in Elounda, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Kato Zakros.
Greece Travel Secrets visits Visual Arts Crete who offer accommodation and run art courses at their home and studio in the village of Kastellos near Rethymnon.
Chania is the main city in Western Crete with a lovely setting and a beautiful harbour as well as several museums.
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Crete Botanical Gardens near Chania and finds a wonderland of colourful plants, trees, and flowers filling a lovely valley.
Crete's capital and largest city is Irakleio, also called Iraklion or Heraklion, a large and busy place with good restaurants, museums and historical buildings.
Driving on Crete is the best way to see Greece’s biggest island and here is our driving advice and some information about Greek driving regulations.
These shopping tips for Crete include advice on buying souvenirs like ceramics, icons, jewellery, leather, weavings, wood carvings, and food and drink.
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