The Herb Man of Kouses
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Cretan Botano herbs and
spices shop near Matala in southern Crete in search of the herb man of Kouses.
Creto Botano Herb Shop
Iannis Yanoutsos was from Thessaloniki and was visiting
Crete when he heard that he had lost his job. He was an engineer whose
speciality was repairing old printing machines, but with changes in technology
there were fewer demands for his skills, and his company gave him early
retirement. It was an opportunity to find a new skill, and so he became the
herb man of Kouses.
Creto Botano Herb Shop
Iannis is away when we call at his shop, Cretan Botano, also
known as the House of the Swallows, in the tiny village of Kouses. It gets its
name because there are two swallows’ nests inside the shop, with the doors and
windows adapted so the birds can fly in and out.
Iannis’s wife Hrysa is busy behind the counter with a steady stream of customers, but still takes time
out to tell us their story. She also explains why they have so many chilis all
over the shop. ‘Iannis likes his food hot,’ she says. ‘Our chilis are all from
around the village here, although chilis grow all over Crete.’
After Iannis was made redundant, he and Hrysa opened their
shop about ten years ago in the centre of this village, about 6 miles (10 kms) north-east
of Matala.
‘Back then this was an old kafenion,’ Hrysa says, and with typical Cretan hospitality she offers us tea, wine or raki, and suggests we sit out on the balcony behind the shop.
‘It had been like that for 100 years. Iannis renovated the place and started drying and selling herbs. His shop helped to regenerate the village because of the visitors who came. The village coffee-shop re-opened, for example. Only about 100 people live here, and there are no rooms to rent in the village, but still people come because of the shop.’
Hrysa tells us how their shop slowly became successful.
‘About seven years ago one journalist who had a TV programme in Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg and France came and made a film about us. Since
then the visitors have increased every year because it was a very good film.
Iannis also grows olives and in the programme I cooked Greek dishes. He was
making programmes about food and local cuisine.
‘That film was very good for the whole village. It was a
half-hour film, all about us. This was the beginning. The next year a German TV
programme came, then magazine journalists started to come and to write about us.
We feel lucky and grateful. We believe we make things with love and people
appreciate it and it's a success eventually.’
The shop is certainly a remarkable place. Although it
started off by selling the Cretan herbs that Iannis grew, collected and bought
from people to sell, it’s now crammed with herbs and spices from all over the
world. A jar of harissa spice from Tunisia sits on top of a jar of Baharat spice
from the Middle East. Next to that is a Berber spice, and nearby a jar of
piri-piri.
There’s coriander next to cardamom, and close by a jar of
cinnamon from Sri Lanka. It has all the smells of an exotic souk here in this tiny little Cretan village.
A large red metal can contains ‘Indigestion tea’ or ‘Dyspepsia’.
There’s a herb to help anyone suffering from rheumatoid arthritis, another for
high blood pressure and another for stress relief. Mastic from Chios stands
alongside vanilla pods from Madagascar.
‘Iannis found very nice people here to provide him with wild
herbs from all over the island,’ says Hrysa. ‘They were nice quality herbs, like
oregano. He also has a garden of almost one hectare [2.47 acres] where he grows
things for the last two years. Another important experiment he was doing was
planting herbs under his olive trees which helps the olive oil to get flavour
and also the benefits of the herbs.’
On the shelves are jars of cranberries and bilberries, of dried
wild sweet cherries. There are sesame seeds, mustard seeds, bottles of olive
oil infused with basil and jars of Cretan honey and Cretan salt.
Hrysa tells us that Iannis started by growing simple herbs
like mint and basil, for himself and to sell in his shop. She says it’s very
hard to find Cretan mint and basil on sale anywhere because everyone grows
their own. The herbs you find in the markets sell mainly to visitors and are
all imported from overseas.
Hrysa Yanoutsos
‘What he also did later,’ Hrysa says, ‘was to start growing
tulsi, which is popular in India. It's like basil and he made this experiment
to see if it would grow here and it was very successful. He keeps experimenting,
all the time. People send him seeds from Africa. Another herb that grows well
here is artemisia or absinthium. It's an anti-oxidant so you have it in tea.
It's very bitter. He was the first to grow this on Crete.
‘We've heard French, German and English people in here, also
Greek. Because it's a nice product the people come again and again every year
when they return to Crete.’
We weren’t surprised. We left laden with two bags full of
assorted herbs and spices, and a vow to return and hopefully next time meet
Iannis himself. He sounds a remarkable man.
More Information
For more information and opening hours visit the excellent
website www.botano.gr.
Greece Travel Secrets discovered
this wonderful place on a food and wine tour of Crete with Go Crete.
Our Pick of the Crete Guides
Other Crete pages
Greek food and drink is a highlight of any visit and Greece Travel Secrets brings you info about food and drink from all over Greece, from Athens to Zakynthos.
Greece Travel Secrets explains the long history of the Greek dish of dolmades, or stuffed vine leaves, which goes back to ancient Greece, and provides a recipe.
Greece Travel Secrets discovers Sitia, the main town in eastern Crete, with its relaxing waterfront, inexpensive hotels, good food, and nearby ancient sites.
Crete festivals and events include Carnival Easter, Whitsun, Christmas, many other religious feast days and public holidays.
The Samaria Gorge is one the longest gorges in Europe and doing the hike is one of the best and most popular things to do on Crete.
The best things to do on Crete and top things to see include the Samaria Gorge, the Minoan Palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, the towns of Chania and Rethymnon.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Western Crete with tavernas and restaurants in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Driving central Crete in three days gives you time to see the highlights including the Minoan palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, the beaches and the Diktean Cave.
Western Crete has some wonderful golden sand beaches as well as mountain villages, monasteries, caves, and archaeological sites to discover.
What is a Greek Salad – a Greek Salad is made up of tomatoes, cucumber, onions, green pepper, olives, and feta cheese.
Icon painting is a centuries-old tradition in Crete and the rest of Greece, and Greece Travel Secrets meets a modern-day icon painter in Elounda on Crete.
Information for travelers on Corfu Food and Drink including restaurants and tavernas, Corfiot specialties, desserts, wine and other Greek drinks like ouzo.
This Lasithi Plateau drive on Crete starts in Neapoli and ends in Malia, covering a distance of 80 km (50 miles) and taking two to three hours.
Maleme near Chania is where the people who died during the battle of Crete are buried, in the German War Cemetery with the Commonwealth War Cemetery nearby.
If you're wondering where to eat in Athens and Piraeus we have a few suggestions including some favorites around the Acropolis, Omonia Square, and Syntagma.
The Snails House in Plouti near Phaistos in southern Crete serves the Cretan delicacy of snails, cooked in several different ways.
What was daily life as a Minoan like on Crete, living in palaces like the ones at Knossos, Malia, Phaistos, and Zakros, and what were their religious beliefs?
The First Corfu Beer Festival took place in Arillas in North West Corfu and celebrated the beer of Bavaria and of Corfu, in the Ionian islands of Greece.
The most famous Cretan writers and artists include the painter El Greco and the author of Zorba the Greek, Nikos Kazantzakis.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Central Crete including hotels in Matala, Ayia Galini, and Zaros.
This Amari Valley drive in southern Crete starts and ends in Ayia Galini, takes four to five hours and cover 100 kilometres or 62 miles.
Greece Travel Secrets goes hiking in southwest Crete with Ramblers Walking Holidays based in Paleohora and hiking the E4 footpath and to Anidri and Azogires.
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to Greek grape varieties to help you know which wines to choose when dining in restaurants or buying wine in Greece.
This drive along the west coast of Crete and inland from there will take a whole day and starts and ends in Kastélli Kissámou, west of Chania.
Malia on the north coast of Crete is renowned for its nightlife and beaches but also has the Minoan Palace of Malia, one of Crete's many archaeological sites.
Enjoy this page? Please pay it forward. Here's how...
Would you prefer to share this page with others by linking to it?
- Click on the HTML link code below.
- Copy and paste it, adding a note of your own, into your blog, a Web page, forums, a blog comment,
your Facebook account, or anywhere that someone would find this page valuable.
-
Renowned for its spectacular “hanging” monasteries and reverent atmosphere, Meteora is the perfect place to spend Greek Easter.
Read More
-
Boasting spectacular landscapes and unique local traditions, the islands of Lesvos, Ikaria and Andros are ideal vacation destinations for Greek Easter.
Read More
-
Discover the secret to making the most delicious Easter koulourakia (cookies) from Smyrna, passed down through five generations.
Read More
-
On the occasion of 200 years since Lord Byron’s death, the Acropolis Museum in Athens is honoring his memory with a symbolic exhibition related to Lord Elgin’s taking of the Parthenon sculptures.
Read More
-
The Greek Transport Ministry on Wednesday launched a pilot ‘Tap & Pay’ contactless payment system for passengers traveling on the express bus lines in Athens that connect to Athens International Airpo…
Read More
-
Sunbeds, umbrellas, and all sorts of constructions have been banned on 198 beaches across Greece according to a joint ministerial decision signed this week by Economy & Finance Minister Kostis Hatzida…
Read More
-
Amidst the mountains and spectacular scenery, these four traditional guesthouses in the heart of Zagori, Epirus, offer the very best in Greek hospitality.
Read More
-
From myth-laden peaks to rugged alpine trails, we explore ten of Greece's highest mountains, where untamed beauty and boundless adventure meet.
Read More
-
The Olympic flame that will be burning for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games this summer was lit in Ancient Olympia on Tuesday, April 16. Located in western Peloponnese, Ancient Olympia is one of the most…
Read More
-
Public transportation in Athens as well as ferry travel in Greece will be disrupted on Wednesday, April 17, due to a 24-hour strike called by the General Confederation of Greek Workers (GSEE), the cou…
Read More