Airbnb near Chania
This Airbnb in the quiet village of Malaxa, a 30-minute
drive into the hills above Chania, is a peaceful retreat with a delightful and
thoughtful artist owner, with wonderful views and amenities.
It was the apple pie that did it. We were staying at Malaxiana, an
Airbnb in Malaxa near Chania, which was self-catering. As we hadn't yet had time to
self-cater, the owner, an artist named Demetris Vamvounakis, brought us two
huge slices of the most delicious apple pie, flavoured with walnuts and
cinnamon, and made by his wife. It meant that we could enjoy our breakfast
coffee and have something to eat with it before venturing out to explore and buy some supplies.
To Malaxiana
We sat on our apartment's big patio, shaded by umbrellas,
and looked down over olive groves towards the glinting waters of Souda Bay on
the north coast of Crete. To the west was Chania, one of our favourite towns on
the island, and all around there was plenty to discover, though it was a great
temptation to just stay at Demetri's and chill out.
We did do that one morning, and Demetri, who's an artist, took
us down below the house to show us his studio. It was a wonderful place, full
of strikingly original and often whimsical art works: sculptures and paintings
and mobiles, all evidence of an enquiring and playful imagination. He moved
quickly around the rooms with great energy and enthusiasm, pointing out his
various creations while telling us his life story too.
Demetri Showing Us His Creations
'I was born in Athens,' he said. 'My grandfather had an
olive press here in the house I live in. He went to Athens in the late 19th
century. They came back with a flour mill. They bought the first shipwrecks
from the Greek government for recycling.'
Some of Demetri's Art Works
'I came back here from Athens. I was lucky to have the house
and I renovated it in 2006. Not the rooms, only the gardens and this part below
the house. I tried to do a tavern but I didn’t want that. I experimented in
many ways to try to make an income. The most successful was inviting a group of
people to dinner in my house, from 7pm to whenever, two courses, wine, lots of
conversation and people liked that. But it wasn’t for me. I didn’t want to be a
tavern man.'
Now he rents accommodation out on Airbnb and in winter also runs courses for children, as he's passionate about the environment.
'In winter I started to invite children to teach them about recycling. I take them to a car recycling place. If they’re lucky they get to smash a car! But it’s to teach them about recycling.'
'If people stay for a week they’ll find food in the fridge,
coffee, tea, honey, oil, fruit, bread. If they spend 90 euros a day on the
accommodation then they get back 30 in food! It’s not tourism,' he insisted, 'it’s
visitors.'
He stays open all year. There’s a swimming pool too, and in
winter when people don't want to use it he fills it with goldfish. Demetri is a
quirky man, totally charming with a warm heart, and with the offbeat eccentricity of
the artist.
The Swimming Pool in Autumn
But he is also business-like and the accommodation is very
well-equipped. There was fresh coffee, filters, a coffee-maker, even a
hair-dryer. As well as the basic foods to get you started, there was also
orange juice and ouzo in the fridge. His wifi code is painted on the wall right
inside the front door, and it's also the same as his phone number.
On a table beneath the stairs is a pile of books, brochures
and local information, like walks and where to eat. There's nowhere to eat in
Malaxa itself, which has a population of 70-80, but plenty of options in
villages nearby, or of course you can self-cater and the accommodation is very
well-equipped for that. One Russian couple stayed there for 15 days, Demetri
told us - and we can see why.
The décor is rustic, with lots of wood, but brightened by
the many colourful artistic touches. Downstairs is a comfy couch, a sitting and
dining area, the kitchen and the bathroom with a shower. Upstairs is another
sitting area (though we used it to unpack our suitcases) and beyond that a
double bedroom. It's simple but is clean and has everything you could want. The
only drawback for us was having to trek downstairs to use the bathroom, but
given the delightful time we had there that was a minor thing.
Demetri was happy to share his life story with us, and
all-in-all was an inspiring man. He seemed a little bemused by the way that
life sometimes works out, and although there are bad times there are also good
times to enjoy.
'When I came here,' he told us, 'I was married but after
five years my wife left. Later, when I was 43, and sitting in the tavern, this
lady said to me: "I want you." I said: "No, no!" She said
"I want to marry you." I said "No. no, you are too young!"
She was 23. But now we have been married 16 years and have two children. I was
60 yesterday!'
Our Pick of the Crete Guides
More Information
For more information and bookings see the Airbnb page
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1330591
We learned about this accommodation through our friend Isi, who runs Go Crete, which can organise all kinds of Cretan tours and experiences.
Road Sign Demetri-Style
Of Course There Are Cats - This Is Greece!
Other Crete pages
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in western Crete, including both luxury and inexpensive hotels in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Irakleio, the capital of Crete, including nearby beach resort hotels and accommodation in the city centre.
Greece Travel Secrets suggests where to stay in Eastern Crete with our favourite hotels in Zakros, Elounds, Sitia, Agios Nikolaos, Istron Bay, Myrtos, Neapolis.
Keramos Studios in Zaros on Crete is an inexpensive two-star hotel/guesthouse with one of the best breakfasts on the island using food from the family’s farm.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Central Crete including hotels in Matala, Ayia Galini, and Zaros.
The best Crete hotels include 5-star luxury hotels, historic and romantic Venetian palaces, and several hotels in Hania and Iraklion.
Crete (Kriti) is the largest Greek island and its main attractions include the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the Samarian Gorge, Chania and Rethymnon.
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to Zaros in Central Crete, including what to do, where to stay, and where to eat.
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Zacharioudakis Winery near Ancient Gortina in southern Crete, and does a vineyard tour arranged by our guide from Go Crete.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Western Crete with tavernas and restaurants in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Eastern Crete including restaurants and tavernas in Elounda, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Kato Zakros.
Western Crete in five days allows time to visit Chania and Rethymnon, enjoy the beaches, hike the Samaria Gorge and see the monasteries at Arkadi and Preveli.
Western Crete has some wonderful golden sand beaches as well as mountain villages, monasteries, caves, and archaeological sites to discover.
This drive along the west coast of Crete and inland from there will take a whole day and starts and ends in Kastélli Kissámou, west of Chania.
Greece Travel Secrets tours the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete and learns about Crete grape varieties such as plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana, mandilari and kotsifali.
Icon painting is a centuries-old tradition in Crete and the rest of Greece, and Greece Travel Secrets meets a modern-day icon painter in Elounda on Crete.
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Cretan Botano herbs and spices shop near Matala in southern Crete in search of the herb man of Kouses.
Studies have shown the Cretan Diet as one of the healthiest in the world, involving lots of fresh fruit, vegetables, fresh fish, and moderate amounts of wine.
The Stilianou Winery near Knossos on Crete uses only Cretan grape varieties, with every bottle numbered, and aims for quality rather than quantity.
The Snails House in Plouti near Phaistos in southern Crete serves the Cretan delicacy of snails, cooked in several different ways.
Greece Travel Secrets discovers Sitia, the main town in eastern Crete, with its relaxing waterfront, inexpensive hotels, good food, and nearby ancient sites.
Sir Arthur Evans is the archaeologist famous for the excavations he made at the royal palace of Knossos on Crete.
These shopping tips for Crete include advice on buying souvenirs like ceramics, icons, jewellery, leather, weavings, wood carvings, and food and drink.
The Samaria Gorge is one the longest gorges in Europe and doing the hike is one of the best and most popular things to do on Crete.
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